Lions and Rhinos, Big Snake. Oh My!

We had heard of Erindi Game Reserve through billboards, their website and other people, but none of the seven of us had actually ever been there so we had no clue what was in store for us as we loaded our suitcases into Steve Brown’s bakkie and my Rav 4 for the three hour trek.
The weather was picture perfect for a road trip – fall in Namibia – cool nights and bright warm sunny days. After turning off the paved highway onto a gravel/dirt road we expected to arrive within minutes, but soon realized we had another 45-50 kilometers to go. For those in the U.S., 28-31 miles. Of course, our speed was greatly reduced due to the nature of the gravel/dirt road, winding curves and climb through the hills. About 45 minutes after leaving the paved road nature called. Both my friend, Petie, and I needed to find a toilet. Up ahead all we could see were trees, bush and sand. Petie pointed to a small silver white strip that snaked up the side of a mountain way up ahead and asked, “Is that our road?” To assuage her dread of waiting that long to reach a toilet, I said, “It can’t be.” I was wrong. We caved to the inevitable, flagged down our traveling companions in the bakkie ahead of us, got out of my car and headed for the bushes. Squatting while simultaneously swatting large flying insects is a skill I honed that day. The rest of the drive was much more enjoyable.
We reached Erindi and were greeted by Janine who gave us a quick tour of the beautiful dining room and extended deck which overlooked a large watering hole where hundreds of crocodiles lazily sunned themselves on the sand or skulked silently in the murky water. Co-habiting with the crocs were numerous huge hippos enjoying the cool water and the warm sun.
We then went to our rooms and were grateful for the amenities we found there. We especially relished the back patio area that faced a smaller watering hole where antelopes of various varieties chose to spend their evenings.
Our arrival time afforded us the opportunity to make the first of four game rides that we took during our weekend stay. Amazing. Among numerous animal sightings the highlight was coming upon four lions – a young male, a mother and her two very large female offspring. The two young females had just killed an ostrich which we smelled before we saw. They were feasting on the large bird, or what was left of it. We were grateful that they were more interested in the carcass of the ostrich than in us, however, they did keep a watchful eye on us as we sat in the bakkie about 10-12 feet from their feast. We were all very much aware of their adult mother who never emerged from the cover of the brush, but watched our every move ready to intervene if she felt our presence was in any way a threat to her offspring. The young male lion kept his distance and offered a few grunts and growls meant to establish his territory. We respected that.
After watching the ostrich fest for quite a long time, we drove on. Our animal sightings included the lions, zebras, white rhinos, several antelope varieties and giraffes. We tried to locate elephants, but were not successful. Our group immediately bonded with our two guides, Junge (Une guh) and Onesmus who would be our guides for our remaining game rides as well.
We enjoyed dinner after we returned and sat on the deck talking and admiring the cloudless black sky and millions of stars trying to identify the constellations that we knew. We had heard that the previous night the elephants had come to the watering hole, so some of us decided to wait it out to see if there would be a repeat performance. We were not disappointed. About 10 p.m. a movement from behind sand hills caught my eye. I very quietly said, “Elephants.” Everyone on the deck turned their focus to the unbelievable sight. As we watched the spot where I first saw movement the elephants came into view. We counted, one..two…three…all the way up to twelve, ten huge adults and two small babies. They all came to the edge of the water hole except the large bull who broke away from the others and walked to the opposite side of the watering hole. He stayed there for a very long time while the others drank their fill and splashed and played. It was surreal that we were allowed to be part of the spectacle. The large bull made his way over to where the others were and slowly one by one they all began to leave in the direction they had come – all except for one young bull. The large bull approached the young one and they had quite a standoff for some time. There was definitely some challenging and positioning going on. Eventually, the young bull realized his place in the herd and backed down. The two bulls rejoined the herd and they all soon disappeared from view. We could hardly wait until morning.
It came early. Our morning game ride on Easter Sunday was at 6 a.m. What a sunrise! Never had I been to an Easter sunrise service like this one. The morning air was crisp and cold. We soon spotted elephants who were quite shy and wanted no part of the human species. We found the spot where the ostrich feeding frenzy had taken place the day before. The lions were still in the area, but all that remained of the ostrich were some feathers, a partial leg and an indescribable stench.
The afternoon game ride far exceeded what we could have ever expected. Junge and Onesmus decided that we would go to another part of the reserve to try to see a large pride of lions, not part of the family we had seen on our previous rides. After driving for quite some time we approached a very large watering hole. Lazily sunning themselves next to the watering hole were nine lions. Three of them, young cubs, were soundly sleeping and never knew we were there. An old male who laid in the bushes watched us approach. Junge pointed out a very large female who he described as the most dangerous. She was antsy, pacing back and forth, watching us with great interest. Eventually, she also laid down, but never relaxed. The other females were preoccupied with something moving in the water off to our left. A crocodile had attacked a large kudu and was in the process of eating it. The kudu wasn’t dead and was flailing its legs helplessly, trying to get away. It was so pathetic. The croc was relentless in his attack. The lions waited patiently for their turn at the carcass once the croc moved on.
We left that side of the watering hole and proceeded around to the opposite side. Just as we were approaching we saw another pride, three other adult lions, the dominant male and two lionesses. Right about the time they came into view we heard a loud pop and a hissing sound. I leaned over the bakkie’s side and saw the tire directly under my seat deflating. We had a blowout…in lion territory. The noise startled the male and he stood up quickly and began nervously pacing. Junge asked us to sit quietly and not make any sudden moves. He radioed for the two other bakkies that were out to come and assist. After some time they arrived and using us as one side the other two drivers pulled their bakkies up to ours forming a triangle. We knew we’d have to disembark. The problem, besides the lions, was that the side of the bakkie used to load and unload was on the outside of the triangle nearest the lions. We decided to disembark by the front row of 3 passengers climbing over into the driver’s seat and climbing down. The other two rows of passengers climbed over the seats in front of them and exited through the driver’s door as well. Three armed guides positioned themselves at the triangle points while we transferred ourselves onto the other two bakkies. The remaining guides jacked up the bakkie and changed the tire quickly. The young male lion became very nervous and began snarling and pacing again, marking his territory. After the spare was on we continued the drive. A short time later Onesmus spotted a very large python crossing the dirt road in front of us. We stopped and nearly all of us got out of the bakkie for a better look. The python was huge. Junge and Onesmus estimated its size at more than 3 meters long…over 10 feet! Its body circumference was impressive. After a while the other two bakkies joined us once again and some of the guides began hacking away at the tall grass where the python had slithered trying to hide. By now it was coiled and struck at the men when they got too close. Thankfully, no one was bitten. After snapping our photos we got back into the bakkies and proceeded to leave. The python was still coiled on the side of the road. As we began to drive away my friend sitting behind me decided to scare me and reached around from the outside of the bakkie, yelled and grabbed my shoulder at exactly the same time the python struck lunging up toward where I was sitting. I can only imagine what my heart rate surged to. After the sheer terror wore off it was extremely funny for all of us.
By this time it was beginning to get dark, but Junge said he had a surprise for us…as if we needed any more! He drove very fast for quite a distance until we came upon three young men of the San tribe. They were dressed in their tribe’s customary loin cloth and carried spears. They ran ahead of us to a small clearing where there were several grass huts, a very young San boy, a fire and another guide from Erindi, who interpreted for the young men. We all got out of the bakkie and spoke with the young men, asking questions of them and the guide. We walked around and looked inside the huts. The small settlement was a mock up of what a San village looks like. We enjoyed drinks and snacks with them before getting back on the bakkie and heading back to the lodge.
After dinner we awaited the arrival of the elephants and like clockwork, they showed up at 10 p.m. Their show was no less spectacular, but there was no showdown between the two bulls like the night before.
The next morning was bittersweet as we took our last game ride before leaving for home. The morning air was once again crisp and cold as we started out. Junge was determined that we find the elephants, so we began tracking them. His patience and efforts paid off. Our group and another bakkie narrowed the search and before long we spotted the massive animals making their way through the trees and brush. They crossed the road in front of us…at least eight of them. The dominant bull was especially on guard protecting the females and young calves. At one point he charged the bakkie next to us coming within 5 or 6 yards before backing down. I don’t think any of us took a breath until we saw him slowly reverse his steps.
After arriving back at the lodge we quickly packed, had breakfast and were soon in our vehicles heading back to the city. Engaging in conversation with Petie I reflected on the wonderful weekend, recalling the unexpected pleasures, the brilliance of the clear star-studded night sky, and the reverence of the Easter Sunday sunrise. I asked her if she recalled our sighting of the road, the small silver white strip that snaked up the side of the mountain, on our way to Erindi when we both needed a toilet. After laughing about that whole scene, I pondered out loud, “I wonder how many times my journey has seemed tedious and the destination so out of reach. I wonder how many times I bailed out before reaching the destination God had intended for me simply because I didn’t think it was worth the effort, or because I was distracted by something ‘more urgent’.” We both agreed that there were times in our lives that we may have missed something more grand because we settled for status quo. We both agreed that the perseverance in our travels that weekend resulted in a huge payoff and lifetime memories.
“So do not throw away your confidence; it will be richly rewarded. You need to persevere so that when you have done the will of God, you will receive what he has promised. For in just a very little while, ‘He who is coming will come and will not delay. But my righteous one will live by faith. And if he shrinks back, I will not be pleased with him.’ But we are not of those who shrink back and are destroyed, but of those who believe and are saved.”
Hebrews 10:35-39
Persevere. The reward is great. The reward is eternal.

Two young female lions.

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